The track plan is to me the second most important thing in this project, next to the method I use to install it. So to figure out the track plan, let's review what I wanted on the layout:
- I want to have a run-a-round plus a siding to take cars on and off. I don't plan to have too much operation though, so it must be simple.
- I'll keep that bush, as I found out that it can be used to separate the layout, dividing it into two parts. One view from the east, the other from the west.
- Because most of what I have for rolling stock is logging cars, the layout will be based on logging.
- A logging layout needs trees, and I want to include a few dwarf spruce, conifer, or junipers
- Though I don't want to do too much nighttime operation/ running, I should still install lighting. I found out that on top of the four outside lights I already have, there is a few left from the old garden which still work. So I'll use these too.
- I want a good place to sit and watch the trains, so I want at least two places where I can have level ground. I found some old paver bricks, which may come in handy!
- I also want a maintenance path going through the railroad, but it should be blened in perfectly with the railroad.
- And finally, I want it to not be an eyesore, so that means mulch, a good looking right-of-way, and no weeds. Luckily, there were few weeds to begin with.
So here is what I decided I want for track requirements based on the list above:
- 3-4 switches
- 1 mainline
- Some basic shape like a rectangle, square, oval
- Small yard with 2tracks and a run-a-round
- A reliable system that keeps the track clean
- small log landing on mainline
- 1 bridge
- 1 tunnel if necessary
- 2 spots where the train passes in and out of a scene.
I hope I can put in all these things in my track plan. after that, I can determine where the border of the railroad will run permanently. Here was my initial thoughts on my choices for roadbed too:
- Use rail clamps instead of rail joiners
- Use track that is high in copper, and low in other materials
- Ballast that is 3/8" crushed rock or smaller
- Switches have manual hand throws or equivalent.
- manual signal system (later on prehapes)
So here is kind of what I was thinking of for a track plan:
Here is the most important curve. The whole layout revolves around this one because space is quite tight, so there can be no mistake here.
I plan on using crushed shale that goes down to about 3/8". It packed down very well, but the sediment that is with it makes it prone to settling initially. I plan on: A. screen washing the ballast to get the rock it want, or B. continuing to add more and more ballast over the course of a few weeks.
Here is the other side of the important curve. It goes right by the small deck I erected to serve as a viewing platform.
Finally, the pond is the other focal point, besides the train. I have to elevate the whole layout up to that level.
January 18, 2012
First off, happy new year everyone! Second, I have finally decided on a track plan that I will do for the Garden railroad. Here it is:
February 29th, 2012
Well with some snow on the ground finally, so I spent the evening here in the house coming up with different ways of making a yard. This evening I also cleaned and took stock of all my usable track:
Cat for size reference.
Three switches provide most of the track age I need. The spur in the lower middle of the photo will lead to the mill. The tow track pieces running parallel in the middle of the photo will hold the freight depot, platform, and water tower. The only thing I might change about this is I may add a spur to load/ unload cars as well as put them on and take them off the layout.
As you can see, the brass after being cleaned, polished, and fixed is all shiny. The ties for the most part are okay, with only a few joints missing.
Based on what I have now, I only need at a minimum of six-eight more curves and 9-11 feet of straight track.
January 18, 2012
First off, happy new year everyone! Second, I have finally decided on a track plan that I will do for the Garden railroad. Here it is:
Legend:
- Light Tan to Light Green: increasing elevation.
- Medium Brown: Track level/ mulch
- Dark Greens: Below track level
- Black lines: Railroad track
- Light Green: Non-garden
- Medium Green circles: Plants
- Brown and Dark Grey circles: Tree and bush trunks
- Olive-colored Textured circles: Foliage from plants
- Brown rectangles/ thick lines: Retaining walls
- Blue: water
- Medium Grey: Walkways and access.
- Black railroad tracks with Brown flanks: Bridge.
February 18th, 2012.
There has been a slight modification to the plan. instead of the rectangle shape above, I have decided to go with a hexagonal shape. This fits the site better, and doesn't look as formal. if you take a circle of track that is twelve pieces, such as what I am using, then instead of keeping them in 4 groups of three for 4 90 degree angles, keep them in 6 groups of two so that you get 6 60 degree curves. Then between them add straight sections and wallah, you have my track plan!
I also thought of a way that I could wire track, keep it together, and keep it operational with less maintenance.
Each track joint will have the following:
- A 2X4 piece of wood holding the track pieces together
- A pair of rail clamps transferring electricity
- And a pair of wire leads running from the track to a bus system. the bus system will be attached to the 2X4 blocks with wire nails and will keep the wire leads from being stressed of breaking. That and I can keep track of the wire easier.
February 29th, 2012
Well with some snow on the ground finally, so I spent the evening here in the house coming up with different ways of making a yard. This evening I also cleaned and took stock of all my usable track:
- 4ft diameter curves- 9, one permanently attached to a switch.
- 1 foot straight sections- 4
- 2 foot straight sections- 2
- 3 foot straight sections- 3
- LH R1 switches, 3 one with a curve piece permanently attached.
- RH R1 switches, 2
This comes out to approximately 9ft of curved track, 17 feet of straight track, and 5 switches.
So with that in mind, I began to design the yard which will serve as the hub of the railroad.
Things I wanted in the yard were:
- A freight house. The freight house is an old bird house, but with some fixing up, it will work great.
- A place to get water and coal. I have a water tower, but now I am in the quest of finding a suitable container for fake coal. I won't need a tower, but an old hopper of some kind would work great.
- A mill, or at least some place to store logs. This railroad doesn't use water to haul the logs to the mill since the terrain is easier for trains than some places. The trouble with hauling logs via water is that they get hung up in all sorts of places, so a railroad might actually be cheaper.
- A platform of some sort for passengers. With one passenger car, and at most two more coming, I don't need anything fancy, but a simple 2X4 painted well might serve the railroad's "passengers" good enough.
So with those thoughts in mind, I set out to design a simple yard, and here is what I got:
As you can see, the brass after being cleaned, polished, and fixed is all shiny. The ties for the most part are okay, with only a few joints missing.
Based on what I have now, I only need at a minimum of six-eight more curves and 9-11 feet of straight track.
March 2, 2012
Well the first shipment of rail clamps has come in and I generally like the clamps a lot. My only problem with these Aristo Craft clamps is that they do not hold the track together adequately by themselves. I did find a way to work around this problem by screwing each track joint down to a block of 2X4 treated lumber. This holds the track joints together and the clamps now just run electricity from one piece to the next. You can see the full review currently on the home page. If you are reading through this long after I have posted this update, you can find the post under the March 2012 section of the blog archives.
Well the first shipment of rail clamps has come in and I generally like the clamps a lot. My only problem with these Aristo Craft clamps is that they do not hold the track together adequately by themselves. I did find a way to work around this problem by screwing each track joint down to a block of 2X4 treated lumber. This holds the track joints together and the clamps now just run electricity from one piece to the next. You can see the full review currently on the home page. If you are reading through this long after I have posted this update, you can find the post under the March 2012 section of the blog archives.
